Peru (Third Mission Trip)

Tipton

Don't CLIMP up over the walls

Friday August 5

Left for airport. Checked my big back pack but carried Sidney's and a small pack on.  We are TSA pre so the beginning of security was easy. I was randomly chosen for the controversial machine. I really don't care.  There was a roll of TP in Sidney's bag that required a closer look. They also did a wipe scan of the pocket the TP was in.  The machine alarmed and I knew we weren't going anywhere fast.  I had to empty the back pack. Which meant repacking it.... And I was subject to a full body very personal touch search.  TSA was very professional and doing their job.  Our work gloves were in the pocket of interest and we have used them to do everything from roofing to yard work.  I suspect fertilizer and they will be checked on the way home.


We caught up with the rest of the group in Houston before boarding.  It was nice to see Ed, Michael, Alysa, and Anya again.  There were also two new members to the team, Allison and Jane.  Allison has been before but Jane has not. Allison came with the Woodlands church two years ago. 

The flight to Lima was long, although it was the earliest we have ever landed coming into Lima.  We landed at about 10:45.  Passport control was a disaster. It took forever. And hour or more.  Sidney and I got pulled to a "preferred" line for families.  It didn't move much faster but "A" for trying.  On the way to the line as we were walking, someone came quickly through a door that opened into the packed area.  Fortunately he hit by bag and not my face.... Still almost knocked me over. 

Water system to Tipon

We finally made it through passport control and got our bags. All of us except Anya.  Her bag never left Houston.  Hopefully it will come to Cusco on Sunday.   Sidney and I also lost our apples.  We forgot to eat them. The airport dog smelled my bag and apparently gave the "apple" bark.  The handler knew right away we had an apple. Bummer...

After all the bag getting, paperwork doing and customs, we got on the van for the hotel.  We actually got in to the very hard bed at 2 am.

Saturday August 6

Morning started at 8 which would normally be sleeping in except for not getting into bed until 2.  Breakfast of coffee and bread before heading back to the airport to go to Cusco.  Our airport adventures weren't over. Sidney had packed a bag of pencils and stuff in the smaller carry on bag.  Apparently there were scissors in the bag.  They are now in a big collection box for things you can't carry through airport security in Lima.  I guess we will buy more school scissors.  TSA in the US failed on that one.  

Kitchen the we arrived

Sidney and I got empanadas at the airport. My ham and cheese one was fabulous. Her chicken one was OK.  We needed more solid food than bread and coffee.

We arrived is Cusco and got checked in to the hotel.  We stay at Hostal Santa Rosa de Lima, www.hostalsantarosacusco.com.  It is a wonderful little hostal.  Friendly staff, clean and safe and it is located within a private girls school.  We have stayed here twice and I really like it.  We went and exchanged money in the Plaza de Armas and had a snack. Sidney ordered strawberry with milk and I had strawberry with water. They are almost like smoothies. Yum. Sidney fell asleep on the table before her drink arrived.  It was pretty funny....

Collage

We went to the market, not trying food one but the crafts and cloth market.  Sidney got some new finger puppets.  They were a kangaroo with a joey, a lion and a snail.  

After the market we made a quick stop at the hostal before dinner.  There is a play area that you walk through to get to the hostal part. There are posts similar to what you would use for tether ball. But these have a smaller ball.  It actually looks like a bit of pantyhose with a small ball inside. It is very small and soft.  Anyway, I hit it towards Sidney and naturally it hit her face.... In front of everyone.  She was fine, I was exhausted and couldn't stop laughing and I won the bad mommy award for the day. 

Bathroom

Dinner was amazing. The restaurant used local and in season meat, fruits and vegetables.  There were two soups or a salad for the appetizer.  Trout, chicken or alpaca for the main course and pudding or quinoa cake for desert.  It was all so good. But after we finished you could see us all fade into exhaustion.  We walked through the plaza to return to the hotel.  There was a free concert in the square and it was wall to wall people. 

We tucked into our much softer beds and fell asleep quickly. 

Sunday, August 7

A somewhat early morning to start the last leg to Ayaviri.  Breakfast and then haul our stuff to the bus.  Anya and Sarah went to the airport early to find Anya's suitcase. It seems it might be permanently lost....In addition to it having all of Anya's clothes it also had many art supplies.  So we will now have to get more creative.

Bathroom

Getting out of Cusco took some time. We had to wait for Urpi and Gabby. Urpi has been on all our trips and Gabby is her daughter.  Gabby has good English and will be helpful.  Urpi ensures that in general we stay healthy and well fed.  She also teaches many things to the women.  Then to the airport to get Sarah and Anya.  Then to make copies of a letter to let someone get Anya's bag if it ever comes.  Then to pick up Manuel, our other translator.  Hurry up .... and wait. 

We stopped at Tipon, an inca ruin on the way to Ayaviri.   Tipton is all about water.  It was an area that the Incas funneled water into and controlled to grow crops efficiently and effectively.  Water still flows through and supplies the village below Tipon.  Sidney and I had a cob of Inca corn and a slice of cheese at Tipon like we did 4 years ago on our first trip to Peru.    We also saw the biggest hummingbird ever.  It has to have been as large as a swallow but it was indeed a hummingbird.  It looked like a slow moving giant.  I got a picture but not a good one... sad face.  

Better ladder

Urpi packed is lunch for the trip. Two cheese sandwiches, an orange, a banana, chips, cookies, quinoa bar and chocolate.  It was awesome.

We stopped about three quarters of the way from Cusco to Ayaviri at the seminary. I tried to give my corn cob to a sheep. He head butted me. Fortunately he was on a leash and I could run.  It was funny though. 

Then we had a bus problem. It wouldn't go up hill... Spent 30 minutes on side of road trying to fix it.  Something about the computer.  We left the hotel at 8 am and arrived Ayaviri after 6.  I was not sure the bus would actually make it.  It was really slow going at the end. 

We had only 40 minutes at the hotel. We have an outside room but for now it is pretty warm.  There is an attached bathroom with a toilet with a seat and TP. In theory there is hot water in the afternoons and evenings because they have solar hot water. I'll try tomorrow after how I hear it goes for others. We are sharing a room with Urpi and Gabby. For some reason our room is the warmest of anyone's. It's actually pretty pleasant. This is the same hotel we stayed at last year but it is an all new outside section.  It was pretty nice compared to the last two years.  

We went over to church to go to a service.  Except there wasn't one.  We did see the kitchen which is still missing a lot.  There is the brick oven, tile, two sinks and some cabinets.  But not all the wiring is in or faucets or burners....what is there looks nice.

Look at the red wires

While I was in the kitchen I knocked a hammer off a chair and it landed on my big toe.  Ouch.  The pastors wife started calling church members to come have at least a small service.  So we sang a few songs and prayed.  In the middle of the service Sidney shows me something. It's a tooth.  Another baby tooth bites the dust.  

We stopped for some street snacks on the way back to the hotel.  There is popped inca corn that is lightly sweetened.  Also some large noodle that is sweetened also.  Sidney was happy. 

The beds are hard as rock. We will see how sleep is. 

Monday, August 8

Scary ladder

It was an ok nights sleep considering the rock bed.  Woke up pretty earlier. Tried to make my instant coffee which wasn't very successful. It was weak and not very sweet. Oh well. Later I lost the washer from my cup down the drain at the church darn it.  First day I used the cup.  

Breakfast was at the restaurant we ate at every morning last time. Sidney has two buns, one cheese, and scrambled eggs.  She also has juice which is more like a multi fruit smoothie.  I had a fried cheese sandwich although I was forgotten (Urpi gave me hers...).  The cheese is the squeaky cheese again. It squeaks more when it is fried. Others have egg and cheese sandwiches.  There is also a cooked chicken thigh with rice and potatoes for the hearty eaters.  

Drum and chair safer then ladder

After breakfast we walked to the church.  I tripped over some rebar and hurt my hip again.  Limped a while but it is better now.  Nothing was ready at the church.  They hadn't even picked colors for the kitchen.  So we spent a couple hours deciding colors and getting supplies. Some people also worked on collages using pictures from our past two trips.  We also wrote three songs in English, Spanish and Quechua.  We wrote them on big posters so all could see them without books.  Quechua is tricky.  Very long words but few of them. They must be compounded.  

There were construction workers building the bathroom walls.  So mostly we watched.  Once the paint arrived we got started.  We had rollers but the long handles were broomsticks.  I could still barely reach the ceiling which meant a lot of paint on me. Also there were no trays so you dip the roller in a bucket.  And the paint has to be watered down.  It is easy to over thin the paint and then you have to put on many coats.  Yellow walls, purple accent and white ceiling.  

We made our name tags out of painters tape and on the first day Sidney was Zidney.

Walkway upstairs

We stand on chairs, counters and drums to paint.  Michael dropped a container of paint down the side of the counter.  Containers are made of what ever we find but usually the bottom of larger water bottles. 

Sidney helped teach English today.  We also took a rainbow ball for the kids. The kids liked it.  I have a new one for every day and a little hand pump to inflate them.

Lunch was chicken soup with squash, potatoes, carrots, quinoa, spinach and a bit of ginger followed by pulled cool chicken with onions, broccoli, potatoes, carrots with a slice of sweet potato and rice.  Always yummy food by Urpi.  

We walked back to the hotel at about 5. On the way back to the hotel we saw the most loaded truck ever.  It was a tall truck loaded at least five feet over the top and had to drive on whatever side of the road had the highest wires.  It was funny.  We took a hot shower. Steamy blissfully hot.  It was wonderful.  

Nearly complete kitchen

We did not go to the church for dinner which is the first time in the three years we have been coming.  It feels weird but it is nice to have a break.  We went to the chicken place.  We ordered 2 and a 1/2 chickens cut into eight pieces each for all of us and plates of french fries.  

We think our room has a ghost. Every time we open the bathroom door the outside door opens.  And our lights turn on and off randomly.  





Tuesday, August 9

We had the normal breakfast and I didn't get mine again.  Sad face. After breakfast we walked to the church.  I spent hours scraping paint off the floor.  Apparently drop clothes aren't used.  Every tile in the kitchen had to be scraped.  I am not sure I will be able to eat tomorrow or move. 

Tow ladders are safer than one...

Urpi was teaching about cooking today and about using normal ingredients in a new way.  She taught the ladies how to make hummus and passion fruit juice.  It was a lovely treat.  We were the taste testers.  She is also still teaching about cooking safely in a way the won't make people ill.  She fussed about how the blender had not been properly cleaned by taking it apart and so it had not been properly cleaned at the blades.  She also talks about washing dishes and ensuring they are rinsed in water with bleach.  She is trying to teach them to let the dishes air dry instead of wiping them because the towels might not be clean.  

Stairs

I took another rainbow ball today.  It and the other one were put to play as soon as the kids came. The schools are so overcrowded here that some kids have school in the morning and some in the afternoon.  There is no art or music.

Ed got shocked working on an outlet.  Wiring is questionable and there aren't volt meters.  If you get shocked it is still live.  

The kids did English as well as beads today. The Sunday school teacher class also continued.  This is a class being taught to help Sunday school teachers know how to develop curriculum and teach.  I also have some great pictures of wiring.  There are no wire nuts used here. The wires are connected and shoved in the walls.  It's a good thing everything is build of bricks, mud bricks or cement.

Painted oven

After lunch of semolina soup with fried potatoes followed by rice with a tiny bit of beef, potatoes and carrots I helped wash dishes and make ties for the concrete forms for the pillars for the bathrooms.  The builders paint diesel on the forms so the concrete won't stick.  I went with Manuel to get the diesel in two 1 liter water bottles.  It was all very interesting.  

Tomorrow we have a bit more painting to do.  Just around the oven.  There used to be a rooster and a chicken at the church but I have not seen the roosters mate.  I think she must be gone. Someone tossed out some rice in the grass fir him though and he was a happy rooster. I found him in one of the classrooms also.  The classrooms are multi purpose like everything else.  There are mattresses up against the wall in every class room that can be pushed onto the floor for the visitors. 

We had pizza for dinner. There are 13 of us and we devoured 4 large pizzas. We also had two bottles of hot sweet red wine. That was really nice.   

Wednesday August 10

Not sure what I was thinking

Had the normal breakfast for me, squeaky cheese sandwich. Sidney got special of the day which was orange chicken with rice and potatoes.  Breakfast and lunch are the big meals in Peru.  Sidney made a pretty big dent.  

Anya's bag came.....finally.  It is was like Christmas for Anya and for art. She brought art supplies to stamp, paint, and collage.  The kids made some amazing collages. 

Jane and I painted the bottom of the oven.  We painted a blue section on top and yellow below, like the walls.  Michael, Rusty and Ed helped pour pillars for bathroom walls.  I brought the largest rainbow ball but it was difficult to inflate.  I brought a small pump but I didn't have the right fitting for this ball.  So it became how many people does it take to blow up a rainbow ball.  There were at least six of us involved.  It was the biggest hit of the rainbow balls but unfortunately it was too loved and only lived for about 24 hours.

Lunch was beets with onion, green beans and red pepper with crackers followed by chicken with potatoes and rice.  I mentioned the art supplies earlier.  The older kids made some lovely art.  They painted and stamped their boards first and then decoupaged with fabric.  They are a talented young group.

Roof coming off one

Wednesday is market day.  That is the day all the streets in the center of town have everything you could imagine.  The fruits are brought in from the Amazon forest area of the Puno region. There are new fruits every year as they are discovered. We tried many different fruits thanks to Urpi.  There are all kinds of clothes, tools, household items, and food.  The chickens on market day may be live.  There is also trout and smaller fish.  Oh and of course potatoes.  More than you could imagine.  The most fascinating item to me is the meat.  There is a wide assortment and no part of an animal is wasted. I saw a whole sheep with his skin and head on the sidewalk and the rest of him on the sales table.  He had been skinned right there.  People come from many miles to sell and to buy on market day.  It is the main day to do shopping, like Saturday in the US.  And as always Sidney's hair attracts a great deal of attention no matter how she tries to hide...

Roof coming off two

We went back to church in evening for the Wednesday service. It was a rather long service.  Each member of our team received a loco llama.  It was a very cute llama with an open mouth.  The son of a church member makes them.  After the service we had a traditional Peruvian dinner of rice with sweet milk and raisins.  

We watched some swimming after getting back to our room.  Sidney made the following comment about Michael Phelps big hands - all the better to breast stroke you with. 



Thursday, August 11

We went to the market with Urpi before breakfast to get fruit.  There is a small indoor market. On our way back we saw a motorcycle with two men on it.  One man was going to drive and the other was going to hold a piece of 4 by 8 foot ply wood. I really wonder how far they made it down the road.  What's really funny is the guy holding plywood is the first person on a motorcycle wearing a helmet.  

Roof coming off three

Sidney got something in her eye right before breakfast.  Urpi made camomile tea to wash whatever was in her eye out.  It worked.  

Michael and I cut 100 pieces of rebar for the bathroom project before helping take the roof off of the toilets.  We started taking the roof off by removing each individual sheet of roofing.  We were pounding out nails from underneath and wearing a lot of gross dirt.  We shortly changed strategies to removing the roof in one piece. The whole thing was held in with wire.  We cut all the wire and used long boards to lift the roof and push it backwards into the street behind the church.   Then we carried it in one piece around to inside the church walls whole so it could be used again. Best project ever!

Roof coming off four

After the bathroom ceiling Michael and I helped install the chimney for the kitchen oven.  This involved getting on the roof of the kitchen and removing part of the roof of the connecting office.  The roof was cool because you could see so far....Once we did that we had to move a support for the office roof and then pound a hole in the cinder block wall between the two rooms.  It was another interesting project. 


Right before lunch I observed the construction guys using a manometer to get a level line all around the new bathroom walls.  Who needs a laser level. 

Lunch lamb and Kancacho Ayavireño.  Lunch was a traditional Ayaviri meal.  We were honored to have lamb and this time is was cooked pretty good.  The side was creamy rice with potatoes and corn.  It was really good.

The roof being stored to re-use

I never thought I would think standing on drums was safer than standing on ladders.  All the ladders are homemade and made with nails and wire.  I know one rung moved while I was standing on it.  The wire needed to be tightened.


The concrete pillars poured yesterday for the bathrooms were too tall and 10 centimeters needed to be removed.  I helped with this using a hammer and chisel.  I needed to borrow a hammer from the construction workers.  They laughed and said they weren't used to a woman asking for a hammer.  It doesn't happen in Peru. I got my pillar chiseled down in the amount of time it took Michael to do two.  I was too conservative with my hits.  

Using the manometer

After that project and the bathroom roof I was super dirty and had gravel in my hair.  I took a nice shower before heading back to the church for our fair well ceremony.  During the ceremony we handed out small bags from the Woodlands church to the kids.  They had craft things in them. We also gave some Spanish English dictionaries that the kids illustrated.  They were really cool. 


After the rather lengthy ceremony we went to bless the new oven and kitchen.  The oven was being used to cook chicken and potatoes.  It was very crowded and very smoky.  It was more or less the last straw for Sidney as she slowly turned yellow.  We had also gone too long without food, which is my fault.

Lighting the oven

After the blessing we sat down to the eat the chicken and potatoes. After eating about two bites of the fabulous chicken Sidney was done.  Too hot, too tired, too smoky and too many people.  She turned really green and bailed.  She wanted to walk back to the hotel to cool off and get air.  We walked home a different way than our normal in case we needed a moto.  We got to see a house being torn down which also had a major road through town closed.  As such a semi trying to get out of town was stuck.  He could go down the street and he couldn't turn because the side streets were too narrow.  And there was a van behind him honking away.  

After we got back to the hostel I got us ready for bed and when I went to leave the bathroom the door nob came off.  

This is the fourth country we have watched the Olympics in.  They are on 6 channels here.  It's pretty cool.

August 11

Last squeaky cheese breakfast. So sad. 

Into the same bus we came in...it apparently is fixed because it did much better.  

Marathon Coat (I didn't bring it)

We stopped at the high point between Ayaviri and Cusco and bought a blanket and scarf.  The scarf is basically fluffy alpaca fur.  

I am always fascinated by how far up the terracing is in the mountains and how steep the slopes are that it is on.  It's amazing.  There were also cultivated trees way up on some pretty steep slopes. Most of the cultivated trees are eucalyptus.  Once we started seeing trees again I realized I missed them while we were in Ayaviri above tree line.

We stopped in Andahuayillas for lunch and to see the church there.  Lunch was three courses.  The first course was either half an avocado with dressing or mushroom soup.  I had soup and Sidney had avocado.  We both had trout for the main course. For desert we had ice cream and a pancake. 

Smallest fire hydrant

The church is called the Sistine Chapel of the Americas.  There are amazing murals and paintings all over the church. The frames of the paintings and the Chancel and altar are covered in gold leaf.  The church is called San Pedro Apostol de Andahueylillas.  There is so much history in this church and it truly is beautiful inside and out. The church like many in Peru, has a conflicted history between Catholicism and local religions in place before the Spaniards.  The town is also historical as it was a resettlement village in 1572 for local native populations following the Spanish conquering of Peru.  It was chosen for having good land and water to support population.  It is worth looking up more about this beautiful building and town.

We arrived in Cusco at about 5 just after the Inca Temple of the Sun museum closed. So we went to the chocolate museum instead.  We learned about making chocolate and tried a variety of samples from pure chocolate to high quality milk and white chocolate.  I bought a bar of 70% dark chocolate for me and milk chocolate with blue berries for Sidney.  I also bought chocolate tea which is made from the shells of the cocoa beans. It was really nice.  And finally I bought some chocolate and coffee infused liquor.  

After the chocolate museum we ate dinner at Papachos where Sidney and I shared Mac and cheese.  It was ok. Not as good as the bowl we had at the Lima restaurant last year.

After dinner, bed.  The beds were wonderfully soft....

Saturday August 13

Moray

Display of art work

After a decent nights sleep we were off to the Moray salt mine.  We had a few missteps on the way.  The driver had different instructions so we headed out of town the wrong way.  We did get many nice views of Cusco and Saqsayhuaman before getting stuck in bad traffic going the other way out of town. There seems to be no concern with stopping on the railroad tracks here even in a bus....We were stopped because of construction.  While we were stopped I observed a remote controlled compactor being used.  It was very cool and certainly would relieve stress injuries and noise.  

The salt mine is as cool as we remember it.  There is a stream of salty water that comes out of a hillside part way down into a valley.  Many pond have been built to divert the flow into.  The flow tot he ponds is controlled with stones such that pools are always being filled.  After a pond is filled the water evaporates at least part way and the salt is harvested.  All by hand.  The ponds are managed to get various salt qualities from that used for animals to culinary and medicinal salt.  Every pound of salt produced here relies on human power to harvest it and carry it to the loading area, 50 kilograms at a time.  

Sidney teaching rainbow loom

After Moray we headed over to Chinchero for a "light" lunch and some textile lessons.  The "light" lunch was quinoa soup followed by chicken with potatoes and salad (which we could safely eat as Urpi taught these ladies to cook).  The lunch was no remotely light and we rolled out of the dining room stuffed to the gills.  

The ladies showed us the various techniques for harvesting, washing, spinning, dyeing and finally weaving.  They had lovely, high quality wares for sale.  We bought a few things there and enjoyed the education.  Only natural products are used to dye the yarns (bugs, leaves, other plants....).  

Moray

After our visit in Chinchero we headed back to Cusco to go to Qorikancha, or what was previous to being a catholic church, the Inca Temple of the Sun.  Inca's worshiped things that provided or controlled life, including the sun.  Before much of the site was destroyed to build the church, there was a large Inca stone structure that included an amazing sundial and was covered in gold.  Inca's did not value gold as money but as something for nobility.  Fortunately although much of this area is dominated by the church, there are still well preserved areas of Inca architecture and culture.  

While we were at Qorikancha, there was a rather large and loud strike or protest in the main street.  It was a protest against violence towards women.  Unfortunately women have fewer rights in Peru and alcohol and poverty make violence against women too common.  

We made a last trip to the market before heading off to a dinner of pizza.  It was a nice dinner and our last one as the whole team.  Jane would be going to Machu Picchu on Sunday while the rest of us started the long journey home.  

Sunday August 14

This was a day of travel and lines.  We headed to the airport to go from Cusco to Lima in the morning.  We all tried to get on the wrong plane in Cusco.  The lines for planes were not well marked so we went to the longest one.  Fortunately we were straightened out.  

Moray

After getting to Lima, we were off to the market there an then two museums.  The market stop was for a few more purchases for the Webster church market.  They will be selling the items they brought to raise money for further trips or to send back to the church in Ayaviri.  

The first museum was called AMANO.  It is a museum started by a Japanese man to preserve pre-columbian textiles.  The textiles that have survived were amazing and interesting.  The museum also talked about primitive and more complicated fabric making.  It showed a variety of textiles of all ages and conditions.  It was quite interesting.  

Hauling 50 kilos of salt

After AMANO we went to Museum Larco.  This museum has more than 45,000 catalogued archeological artifacts, most of them pottery.  There is the standing exhibits and thousands of items of pottery catalogued and stored on floor to ceiling shelves.  The museum was founded by Larco as he studied artifacts and developed timelines of civilizations as well as locations by studying pottery.  Many of his timelines have shown to be accurate over time.  The collection and descriptions are amazing.  One of the best museums I have been to.  

This is also where we ate dinner before heading back to the Lima airport.  The restaurant is high class great food.  A very pleasant place to enjoy our last meal in Lima.  

We were off to the airport for the long night flight.  Sidney and I did not have great seats.  She slept enough, I slept enough to be more grouchy....  We did get home safely with no problems.  

Rainbow ball fun

There was a tome of rain while we were gone and since.  I think over 10 inches since we got home. There has been so much rain the golf course has been closed most of the time.  I saw two bucks just on the other side of the course on Thursday.  I have never seen deer over there.  

Sidney and I volunteered at the San Antonio Food Bank on Saturday.  It was good hard work to help fill 1200 boxes with food for seniors in the course of two hours.  We were amazingly tired and more than a little sore.  

School starts tomorrow and Sidney's birthday is Wednesday.  She will be 11 and she is starting 7th grade tomorrow.  She is excited about school starting and we met all her teachers on Thursday.