With excitement, nervousness and anticipation I (Kimber)
set off for a return trip to Peru. This time was not for vacation but to
participate in the creation of a relationship between Webster Presbyterian
Church from Houston area with a small Presbyterian church in Ayaviri, Puno
Peru. This small church is part of the
Iglesia Evangelica Presbiteriana church of Peru. The Hamiltons remain connected to the
Webster church through the Associate Pastor Helen DeLeon who invited us to
participate in this adventure. Kirk does
not have the same amount of vacation as I do and Sidney was not able to
participate because of her age. Our
opportunity to go to Peru and Ayaviri was due to the coordination of the
Presbyterian Mission Agency and specifically Sara Armstrong and her husband
Rusty Edmonson in Lima and Helen and her on the ground work from two previous
Peru trips.
Sara and Rusty have been serving in Peru since 2009 and
are masters of organization, translation, logistics in order to facilitate and
coordinate visits by delegations (visiting churches) to their partner churches.
The goal is never a one time visit but to be able to build relationships
between churches and people that will stand over time. The work that Sara and Rusty do impacts the
lives of many by helping to build bridges between diverse people and cultures. Sara
and Rusty are amazing people.
Ayaviri is located in southern Peru and is home to around
20,000 people. It certainly does not
appear to have that many people. Most roads aren’t paved and there is a single
light. It is a small and poor farming
community. But is it home to the small Presbyterian church, a Catholic Church
of course, and the farm run by the Presbyterian church. The main language is
Quechua.
We were also required to read “When Helping Hurts” about
short and long term mission trips and the potential cost of those trips to the
“help” receivers if thought about sustaining and appropriate relationships
doesn’t occur.
I departed for my adventure on July 1 from San Antonio. I
managed to just make my connection in Houston to catch up with the rest of the
team coming from the Houston area. We
arrived into Lima at 10 pm and it took about 2 hours to clear passport control,
get bags and clear customs. So we
arrived at our hotel, Casa Kolping in the Magdalena area of Lima at around
midnight. Just FYI a single room here costs about $16. A triple costs about
$36. The hotel was fine as far as clean
and in a good area of Lima. But the bed
was as hard as a rock so I didn’t sleep much that first short night. Additionally, we were on the 3rd
floor of course and there are not elevators so it is haul stuff up and then
back down.
Lima itself never sleeps.
There is traffic and noise always.
We passed some road construction and the barrels used to mark the area
are actual barrels (the kind that stuff comes in), with a reflective stripe
glued or painted on. Construction is also occurring on nearly every block in
Lima. It is a rapidly growing city. There are already an estimated 9 million
people in Lima but 15 million electricity meters are read each month.
Saturday
We got up Saturday morning and prepared for the next step
in our adventure. The hotel had a lovely
garden that we noticed in the morning while eating what would be our standard
breakfast fare, coffee and rolls with butter.
The coffee was typical for Peru.
A very strong liquid coffee is in one small pot and hot water in
another. To make a cup of coffee you put a tablespoon or two of the coffee into
a cup and top it up with water.
After breakfast a couple of us went for a short walk to
the store and around the block. The
store in this area was very nice and similar to a very small store in the US.
After our walk, we began our education. Sara and Rusty
provided the majority of our education on Peru while a leader of the
Presbyterian church in Lima provided some history of the church there. First we learned about the water in Peru and
its affect on populations. Over 1/3 of
the people of Peru live in Lima but there is very little water. The majority of water that falls in Peru as
either rain or snow falls in the Andes and flows east into the Amazon
area. It is expected because of this
that Lima will be one of the first cities to begin to de-populate due to lack
of water. Additionally, water is poor
quality all over Peru and is unsafe to drink. We also learned about the Time of
Terror and the affect on people. The
Communist Party of Peru, know as the Shining Path launched internal conflict in
Peru in 1980 attempting to establish a dictatorship using brutality and
fear. Many people fled their villages in
fear for their lives creating many of the shantytowns around Lima and other
large cities. Our education ended with a
story about Brother Mouse and Brother Elephant. Brother Elephant and Brother
Mouse were best friends. Brother
Elephant wanted to throw a party so he invited many friends including Brother
Mouse. Everyone danced until late in the
night and fell asleep. Brother Elephant
said goodbye to all his friends in the morning but Brother Mouse was
missing. Brother Elephant finally found
Brother Mouse trampled on the floor. The
story is meant to describe American short-term missionaries. They come in, dance and save the day but the
people left behind feel trampled and worn.
We were taught to focus each day on the people and the relationships. The work was second. To be successful over the long term we needed
to take it slow and steady with patience and love.
Our goal is not to do something fast and furious that the
people of the church can do themselves.
They are very capable of building chairs. Most people have built their own chairs. Our goal was to work side by side in
communion on a project that would help the church grow in both numbers and
faith with each other. We would be used
to challenge the church, men and women, to commit to the church and its growth
and to become people who were right with God, right with the church, right with
each other, and right with the world.
We headed back to the Lima airport to catch our flight to
Cusco. Our flight was delayed so it took
some extra time to get there. We didn’t
arrive at Hotel “San Juan Masias” until nearly 5 pm. Everyone was at least on the second floor but
there were already people suffering the effects of high altitude. The altitude in Cusco is 11,200 feet. Fortunately I felt fine, I just found myself
more easily winded.
We wandered around for a while looking for a restaurant that
could accommodate us all as we were so late.
I think this wore everyone down but we did finally get to a place that had nice soups and simple main courses.
I had a nice dinner of asparagus soup and fried trout. Dinner was where
the high altitude casualties started and they continued for the next two
days. Some had vomiting or extreme
fatigue, headaches and dizziness. You
can buy small bottles of oxygen there that can be used similar to an
inhaler. Several people needed these.
We also met Manuel and Urpi at dinner. Manuel would help us with translation and
Urpi would be our chief healer and head the kitchen. Urpi is short for Uripicha
which means heart if the dove. Urpi showed time and time again that she was one
of the most beautiful people, inside and out, that I have ever met. Her food was nourishing, healthy and good and
the love that went into it could not have been greater. She coached many of the illest team member
how to breathe and take care of them selves.
Our hotel was simple but clean with heat and hot running
water. The hotel is run by Dominican
nuns on the grounds of a busy private school.
It is also near to the Plaza De Armas, the central plaza in the
area. I slept much better and felt well
rested for the next day’s adventure.
Sunday
We were up early for our 5-hour bus ride to Ayaviri. Our goal was to get there by noon to
celebrate the end of worship. However
you can’t predict the travels from Cusco to Ayaviri for several reasons including
the continuing affects of altitude on some of our members, the winding road,
and the traffic. We had a member get
sick very early in the ride so we took an early break to rest and stretch our
legs. We also took this at the lowest
altitude on the ride, maybe 9000 feet to allow everyone a few extra molecules
of oxygen. Urpi lead us in some nice
breathing exercises before we piled back on the bus.
Abigail |
We made it to Ayaviri safely, 48 hours after we began our
travels. One small snag was that because
we were late, we went straight to the church and the bus had been paid to
deliver us to one place so we had to offload all of our things from the bus and
store them before we could join church.
We were about a ½ hour late but the church was still waiting. We did our greetings and all introduced
ourselves. We would start and end each
day with greetings for the rest of the trip. The church members did as well and
then we spent the next 30 minutes saying hello to everyone. This illustrated the point that hello comes
first and work comes second.
The kitchen and bathrooms |
Those who were well and adventurous wandered around the
square before dinner. We met a couple of young leaders of a Fellowship of
Catholic University Students (FOCUS) who were leading a group of students in a
mission in the villages for two weeks.
This group has been working in the region for several years. They were staying at a dorm owned by the
Catholic Church and it was just across the square from our hotel. One of the
leaders of the group had been a college basketball player. I was extremely short in comparison. Talking
to them touched my heart and brightened my day.
Some of the chair and table parts |
We finally headed back to the hotel. The sun had long since set and it was below
freezing. It is winter there right now
and we were at 13,000 feet. Everything was cold. Our rooms, our beds, our clothes…..
Monday
We started the morning, after passing around greetings of
course, with a chair building demo by Antonio which took two hours. I had
already figured out how they went together but patience is a virtue I need to
practice. Antonio also carefully spelled out what was women’s work (the sanding
and filing) and what was men’s work (the fitting, gluing and squaring). I did
actually try to stick to women’s work but you know. We worked in teams then to
build chairs. We tried to make sure all the teams were a mix of Americans and
Peruvians.
After our demo we built chairs until 2 and had soup for
lunch with an appetizer of carrots, tomatoes, celery, onion, peas and garlic
salsa. The soup had local squash, potatoes, onion, large green leaf, carrot,
quinoa and chicken feet. We were not served chicken feet. Those were saved for
the Peruvians which they loved. I
learned quicly to ask for small portions. Towards the end the Peruvian cooking
ladies started to say, “She doesn’t eat much, does she?” But seriously, they had huge bowls and I just
can’t eat that much at once. Nothing went to waste though. The ladies put everything left over into bags
to take home.
Dinner was chicken wrapped around veggies in broth with
rice and peas. It was amazing. We then had devotional with our friends. Tonight at least the stories indicated the
tall people weren’t so bad. But a
challenge was issued, from Antonito and using us as an excuse, that our
workmanship need to stay high quality and members needed to continue to
participate. He also challenged all of us that he didn’t think we would get
done. Then we went back to our not-as-cold tonight hotel for some rest.
Tuesday
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The chairs and tables were very simply constructed. For the chairs, there were four legs, two short for the front
and two taller for the back. Then there were
three different pieces used to put it all together. There was one front seat support, two side
seat supports, three bottom rails (each side and the front) and the four pieces
that built the back (two at the top for the back support, one for seat support
and one bottom rail). The wood was very
pretty and everything had been milled.
We did need to round off the edges of the tenon and clean out the
mortise. The tenons were square cut and
the mortises had been drilled. Sometimes
we also needed to remove some tenon because the fit was too tight. We would build a front and a back and then
join those. Each section was squared up
and when everything was fit, glued and square, we nailed on the seat.
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There were a few more kids today so they played with the
chalk and made friendship bracelets. They drew pictures and colored the
concrete on the bottom of the sanctuary.
In my mind that is loving God’s house as it should be. We also worked outside all day. It was warm
and sunny and by now most people were feeling OK. But we needed sunblock and water. The sun is
intense at that altitude.
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Antonio providing instruction |
Dinner was spaghetti. Dessert was a rice pudding and of
course tea. We were discovering Antonio is a tough guy to please. He has
enormous attention to detail but again I also think we were his excuse to
challenge the church members to participate and participate fully.
Ladies preparing the chicken feet for soup |
The horns on the buses sound like sirens and are
annoying. They start at 7 am and go
until 10 or so. The walls of the hotel are as thin as a tent. So you can hear everything inside and
out. I took the fastest and coldest
shower ever. I thought I was going to
freeze.
Wednesday
Breakfast was rolls, cheese, and quinoa with apples.
Delicious. Over breakfast we brainstormed ideas for the next trip that Helen
could talk with the Peruvians about. We talked about a kitchen, bathrooms,
common area, or playground. We also
talked about various classes including nutrition and cooking. We could have
some team members who worked on physical labor while others taught the women
and children.
We worked on tables all morning. Got 7 complete and all
dry fit before lunch. Others sanded and varnished the chairs. We were racing the weather today as it was
going to rain in the afternoon. We also
were preparing our hearts and minds for the farewell that would occur after
dinner.
Helen met with Moses and Aaron while we worked and
amazingly they had the same ideas on their heart as we had. We will see what happens over time. Is the church there committed to growth and
renewal and do they have the funding necessary to allow us to meet in the
middle?
Lunch was mutton with beets and red peppers and potato,
some hot veggie mix. The sheep was alive in the morning out on the farm. We all
got a small part with bones. I couldn't figure out what part I had. It had some
tubes on it still. The flavor was good but the meat was tough. I took 10 boxes of Girl Scout cookies with me to share with the Ayaviri team and Webster team. We polished those off after lunch. I brought abut three boxes per day unitl now.
Chalk art on the side of the church |
We attended our farewell service after dinner. We all sang nice songs and exchanged presents.
We gave notes from VBS, crosses, Texas bags, bracelets, etc. The church gave us
hand made Alpacas. It was a fitting farewell. Antonio thanked us for our work and with happy
but also sad hearts we made one last trek back to the hotel. It was hard to believe the trip was nearly
finished.
Thursday
Breakfast was salty, very bad quinoa and potatoes with
fried squeaky cheese. The potatoes and cheese were good. Then we loaded and boarded the bus. It was a
very small bus and all of our luggage had to go on top. I hoped it didn't rain
or the stuff come off. We then put 27
people (several church members joined us) on a 19 passenger bus and went to a
rock formation near Ayaviri called Tinajani.
There are a number of stories about the name but one part of the word
means receptacle and the other is the rock that can be used to dye wool
blue. It was a beautiful place. Several of us took advantage of the extra red
blood cells we had been building and tried to keep up with the kids
climbing. We still huffed and
puffed.
At Rachi |
Moses' Car |
We spent the night at Hostel San Juan Masias again. It has heat and hot water. As a matter of fact our room had no cold
water. Oh the irony. My room slept like lumps on logs. Our last bed for 48 hours.
Friday
Gift from the church to Webster |
We got checked in at Cusco airport. I bought a Pukara bull like
the ones Peruvians put on their house for good luck, earrings, and Inca corn. I
also dined on an empanadas de rocoto. It was an empanada stuffed with meat,
cheese, veggies and spicy peppers. It
was so good.
Peruvian Air flights look like old Southwest planes. We caught our
flight back to Lima. We visited Sara and
Rusty’s house there to drop off Vicky who was very ill. We went to eat lunch and a great little
sandwich shop. It was very close to where we stopped on our previous trip to
fill Sidney up with churros. The
construction that was going on before is complete and there is a very nice
walkway and bike lane.
View of Cusco at night |
Panorama of Tinajani |
I am hoping and praying about the next opportunity. I hope we can build a long-term relationship
with this church and that we can support each other through the ups and
downs. I am so blessed to have been able
to participate in this trip. I can’t
thank Helen, Sara, Rusty, Manuel, Urpi, Moses, Aaron and others enough for the
work they did to make this trip reality.
Kirk and Kimber are off to Austria in four days. We will meet Sidney in Vienna where she will be coming down from Norway. We will be spending 2 weeks there participating in a choral festival. It should be an amazing experience and we will get to spend some time with a few members of our Katy church family.