Peru Part 2 (Last Year's Christmas Trip)

So this is a mis-timed post and there will be at least two more.  As our lives settle into a new normal I am trying to get caught up on back posts.  In addition to the blog being our communication method with the world, it is also the story of Sidney's life and I think it is important for me to catch it up on the bits that we missed because of life, moving and the accident.

This is the second part of a post from January 2014 that tells about or adventures in Peru for Christmas and New Years.  The previous post was due in large part to Kirk's copious notes.  However I don't have those anymore, I have only the notes Sidney and I took which aren't as detailed.  We do however have pictures, or at least some of them.  We had a computer crash since then as well.

The previous post described our arrival into Lima, our trip to Puno and the floating Islands of Lake Titicaca, our bus ride to Cusco (my favorite town in Peru), our Christmas dinner and travels around the Cusco area.

This post will take you to Machu Picchu and the fresh water lakes of the Amazon.  And then home again. The first two days are Kirks notes and after that it's my recollection.

12/27 - As stated before, Kirk was up several times through the night with Montezuma's revenge, or perhaps Tupac Amaru's revenge. By wake-up time, Kirk felt pretty ill and skipped the breakfast. We met David (our guide) in the lobby, then took a bus to the train station for our train ride to Machu Picchu. The train ride was 3 1/2 hours long. It was a nice tourist train and the ride and was very scenic, passing farmland, then through canyons and along a raging river to the town of Aguas Calientes, with is a little town in the shadow of and catering to Machu Picchu and the tourist industry.  One unique feature of the train route has to do with the grade the tracks cover in a short distance. The train makes a Z up and down the steep section. The train pulls or backs into a section, then reverses its way up or down several times.

Kirk stayed back at the hotel, while Kimber, Sidney and David went out to do a little exploring. Kimber and Sidney walked along the river using the train tracks.  It was pouring rain and the river was raging.  They had a great time getting soaked, talking with David and exploring.  Sidney rescued snails off the train tracks.  She would let them crawl onto a leaf and them move them off to the side.  Sidney and David would also walk the rails ever so very slowly but working on balance. It was a great let down day.

12/28 - Machu Picchu day and Kirk was better but Kimber has been up all night sick. She was under control by morning and could be away from a bathroom, but couldn't eat. She braved it out anyway and after a quick breakfast we headed for an early bus up the mountain.  She was not going to miss this day. We were up before dawn to catch the bus so we could see the sunrise at Machu Picchu. It was a little drizzly with quite a bit of fog rising out of the valley, but the temperature was nice. The fog added to the beauty and mystery that surrounds the "lost city of the Incas". By the way, before Hiram Bingham "found" the city in 1911, there had been two other European explorers that visited the city in the 1800's, and when he found it, there were three local families that were still farming some of the terraces surrounding the city. Hiram Bingham was just the first to recognize the significance of the city and do excavations of the main city. The train we ride to and from Cusco has Hiram's name on it.

The clouds cleared after we got our overlook views of the city, and the weather was wonderful for the rest of the day. I am not sure it could have been better. The sun came out, and the temperature was very pleasant for our exploring. David taught us a huge amount about the history, as well as construction methods and the purpose of the buildings throughout the city. It is amazing that a city over 500 years old still has a perfectly functioning drainage and irrigation system. There are of course
many temples and important religious buildings at the site. The houses and buildings are uniquely
built and have interesting ways of holding on doors and the thatch roofs that they had.

The technology found in the city was also fascinating. There is one stone which is carved and set so the four points match up with the four points of the compass. There are also several stones carved and set so their profiles match the profiles of the large mountains behind them.

The ability of the Incas to build houses with intricately carved stones for holding doors, roof poles for thatching, and even houses with two stories was also amazing. We saw different qualities of stone carving and setting, depending on the purpose of the building, and David also pointed out areas where significant artifact finds were located. It took thousands of laborers 50 years to build Machu Picchu. It's reason for existence is unknown but it is thought to have been on good travel routes linking many other cities.

There were also lots of opportunities to view nature around the city. There were wildflowers and native plant species, several birds, including some kestrel hawks, and insects. Sidney particularly liked the millipedes, which she referred to as gazillipedes.

Kimber, being the driven individual that she is, decided to hike up toward the Sun Gate, which is on the Inca Trail overlooking the city. Kirk knows his limitations and decided to stay back with David and enjoy a cold Cusquenas beer at the entry point while Kimber and Sidney did the hike. After they returned, we opted to hike down the mountain and back to Aguas Calientes instead of taking the bus. The weather was great, and the nature would have been beautiful to look at, except Sidney practically ran down the mountain dragging David and Kimber and Kirk had to work hard to stay within sight of them. It was probably one of the toughest downhill hikes we have done since Norway!

It started to rain just a bit just as we were getting back into town. We stopped into a rail side cafe for lunch, then headed back to the hotel to rest a bit in the lobby before catching the train back to Cusco.
This would be the last time we saw our favorite guide ever, David. Kimber did see him while she was back in Peru this summer.

Sidney would like to hike the Inca trail when she is old enough, age 12.

12/29 - Off to the Amazon. We departed Cusco for Porto Maldonado.  Porto Maldonado has the smallest airport ever.  There aren't even real walls, only tarps for walls except for the wall to the planes which has two glass doors and some other glass. There are two gates and no food.  Tiny!

We were picked up by our guide company for the Amazon part of our trip and taken to drop off the luggage we didn't need for the last four days of our Peru adventure.  We were prepared for this having read the requirement that you have to carry everything into and out of the lodge we were going to.  Others weren't prepared and had to unpack and repack in front of everyone. It was at least funny.

We also had to find water proof boots because the trail into the lodge is muddy this time of year as it is the rainy season. We had trouble here for Sidney. We thought we got a pair that fit but we found our quickly they wouldn't stay on and we have to manage some other way.  Kimber was left with a too large pair also but took Sidney's when she couldn't wear them and was OK.

We took a boat ride on a tributary from the Amazon river, the Urubamba to the Madre de Dios to the drop off place where we enter the forest to go to the lodge.  This is also where we needed sun block and bug repellent at least three times per day and took anti malaria drugs.

It felt like a forced march for the 1.5 miles to the next boat.  We were late because another couple in our group couldn't make any of the boots work and we had to drive around looking for a pair for him and the sun goes down early there. Kimber got a boot stuck in mud right up tot he top and almost walked out of her boots a few times.  Kirk did fine and we helped Sidney over and around as much
mud as we could since she didn't have boots.  She didn't care and had a great time.  We just figured we would sacrifice the shoes and trash them.

After the forced march we took a canoe to Lake Sandoval Lodge.  It is very primitive.  There is water all the time but only electricity part of the time. No air conditioning and no ceilings. There is a roof over the whole set of buildings, but no ceiling over each room which means you can hear everything that happens in other rooms nearby. we also slept in mosquito netting.

After getting settled in went for a night hike.  We saw pink footed tarantula, chicken spider, wolf spider, frogs, tailless scorpions, tropical house gecko, squirrel monkey, scarlet macaw, gray macaw, leaf cutting ants, yellow headed vulture, and tadpoles.  The chicken spider is as big or bigger than a large man's hand.

Dinner was always edible although nothing fancy. Again, everything has to be carried in on foot or in carts pulled on foot, including fuel. Hence the lack of electricity.  The water is recycled and isn't drinkable except what is provided from the kitchen. The lodge is in an area that requires conservation.

12/30 - We started with an early boat ride. We were successful almost immediately is seeing what we came to see. The reason to go to Lake Sandoval is giant fresh water otters. They are found only in the fresh water lakes of the Amazon. They are 6 foot long otters who eat 10 pounds of fish per otter each day. A lake can support only one family and the kids hang around for three or more years before beginning the difficult journey across land to find both an unclaimed lake big enough to support a family and a mate.

They are found here because of another mammal, the monkey. The squirrel monkeys race through the forest along the edge of the lake picking fruit and eating only a few bites. Then they toss the fruit. It falls in the water where the abundant fish life devour a hand delivered treat. The level of marine life can then support a family of otters. Since we went in the rainy season, it can be harder to find the family as they use many burrows. During the dry season they use just one borrow. As it happened the burrow they were using was the burrow just below the lodge. So we saw them often by boat and from shore. Lovely creatures.

We saw tons of other animals as well. Long nose bats, black camen babies and their eggs, sun grebe, Anhinga, striated heron, green ibis, Hoatzin (punk chickens seen in the picture), boat billed heron, neotropic cormorant, parrots and macaws of all sizes and shapes, and colors, toucan, white winger swallow, king fisher, red capped cardinal, and wood creeper.  The forest is alive with birds, bugs and mammals.

After breakfast we went for a walk in the jungle. We saw black winged bats, dusky titi monkeys, and tried Quinine (used to treat malaria).  It was very bitter and and nasty. We also tried fresh Brazil nuts, which we loved.  They fall about 50 feet from the trees.  They are difficult to grow because the Brazil nut flower is built such that it takes a strong bee to get in and once it is in, it is often trapped.  A tree will produce fruit only every other year.  The whole nut is just larger than a baseball.  You hack off part of the outer shell and take our the segments.  There are 13 to 25 segments per nut.  Then you have to use a nut cracker to get in.  Fresh Brazil nuts are so amazingly better than what you can get in the states.  We also saw cirique birds, the ones that weave the nests.

We always took a break in the afternoon because it was hot.  Then we went on another boat ride. We saw Kara Kara and huge troops of spider monkeys partaking in their wasteful run through the forest eating a few bite here and there and dropping the rest in the lake. We counted 20 mothers with babies on their backs.  They were crazy and so much fun to watch. We also saw howler monkeys, clambuse kites, and fish catching bats.  We were out right at dusk. And then we saw our friend Camey, a black caiman (named by Sidney of course).  The caiman and otters survive peacefully together for the most part.  The otters are strictly diurnal and the caiman nocturnal.  So they rarely cross paths and full grown they are not threats to each other. Sidney's quote of the day was it is raining monkeys.

After our busy day we were ready for our simple dinner.  The only problem with dinners was it is dark and the lights are on in the lodge.  This attracted droves of tiny white gnats.  Inevitably we ate lots of them.  They would land in drinks and soups.  Extra protein.

After dinner we got a unique surprise.  We were hanging in the hammocks when we heard someone say Hi Sidney, what are you doing here?  It happens that a boy from her school in Katy came to the lodge that night.  He and his mom had also been in Peru and came to the lodge.  They had a shorter visit but what a small world.  He and Sidney are about the same age but different grades.  They fought anytime they were together.

12/31 - New Year's Eve - We started this morning with a 5 am boat ride and walk but it was so worth it. We saw more howler monkeys another caiman, cappuccino monkeys, white bellied parrot. Then we got to the surprise.  There are several pictures of this. It is an old dead palm tree that attracts all the birds.  They come an eat the wood because it contains nutrients they need that aren't found in the fruit they eat.  There are hundreds of birds around at anyone time waiting to get their nutrient snack.

We ate breakfast when we got back to the lodge.  There was a possum on the underside of the roof in the kitchen area.  There must have been a good sized hole somewhere. After breakfast we went for another walk.  We saw and Agudo (the rodent pictured) right behind the lodge.  They are dog sized rodent.  We also saw a collared forest falcon with a rat and Sidney swung Tarzan like on a vine. She doesn't know who Tarzan is. We ate more Brazil nuts and saw more bugs, moths and butterflies.

We ate dinner and went to bed early. Yes it was New Years Eve but there is no power after 10 pm and not TV to Internet so what's the point of staying up.  We also had to leave in the morning to head to Lima to catch our flight home so we had 24 hours of travel in front of us.

1/1 - Happy New Year.  Today was travel.  We took the canoe to the muddy trail.  Sidney had wells this time.  Then the trail which was far less rushed and more enjoyable to the boat. The boat back to town and then got our stuff and headed to the airport.

Our flight from Lima departed at 11:30 pm so we had a lot of time to kill in the Lima airport.  Unfortunately Sidney was getting a really bad cold and was running  fever.  Everyone was exhausted.  Our flight was to Newark and then another flight to Houston so it was going to be a long time till home.  When we went to check in though, we got told we could get not he direct flight to Houston.  It departed late but still got us home by 7 am, many hours before we would have gotten there the other way.  We were in the back of the plane and Sidney was miserable but we were glad to be home.  We had piles of the nastiest laundry ever.  The clothes from the amazon reeked and we had only washed the rest of the clothes in the sink.

December 26

We had a good day on Christmas. Sidney fell asleep early on Christmas Eve after the Christmas Eve service at church so Santa could come. Nobody got up until 7 and it was a leisurely morning if opening gifts, cleaning up afterwords and eating a light breakfast. I did try to kill the blender with orange juice while trying to make a smoothie. The bottom of the blender bowl leaked and I didn't realize it until the blender just stopped working. OJ'ed out I guess. It started up again once I dumped all the juice out.

We went to get Kirk at 10 and arrived at our friends at around 11. Kirk helped peel potatoes. It was a little difficult at first but then muscle memory took over. He still isn't as strong or coordinated so he wasn't speedy but he got it done. We shared a great meal of turkey, stuffing, green beans, corn, mashed potatoes, biscuits and cranberry jello.

Kirk is a plate cleaner. He will clean it every time with dedication. This is an example of the focus that is apparent after the injury. That's also why condiments in dishes can't be near him. He thinks those need to be eaten as well. He has drank soy sauce and dressing. I took barbecue sauce away from him before to keep him from drinking it.

Kirk was very restless after dinner. He would sit and watch TV for a while before he needed to wander. Our friend finally took him outside to help set up a trampoline they got for their kids. Again Kirk demonstrated his focus and muscle memory. Given a socket wrench and direction to tighten bolts, it got done.

It seemed like he was content to happy all day. He liked watching the dogs run around, watching the kids eat, and helping with the trampoline. He never seemed overwhelmed or over tired. He wanted to stay but accepted that he needed to go back to his house in part because his medications were there.

We took him to his house and he opened his gifts. He got some slippers, a couple of new pairs of sweat suits, and several games and crafts. I don't think he totally got that it was Christmas. I mean with feeling. The opening of gifts was automatic.

Sidney's big gift this year was horse back riding lessons. She took her first lesson today and loved it. She will get two more before school starts and then once a week after that. It's another thing to do but she was completely surprised and it's worth it to get some time taking her too and from and seeing her fully enjoy something.

I don't know if we got memory for Christmas. Please continue praying for it. The next post will be about our adventure this time last year in Peru. Needless to say I am way behind.

December 24

Sidney and I spent several hours with Kirk at the clinic yesterday getting to watch him work. Sidney even did some exercises with him and checked his math. That's a switch.

Kirk is getting a little more endurance every day as well as focus. We do continue to see interesting things. He can write but not read. You can tell him a decent length sentence, all at once and he can write it. He continues to work on identifying common objects like pens, paper, balls and socks. His writing is sloppily his.

He can also play connect 4. He and Sidney played several games and had fun. They each won a game and I helped Sidney with a third game. Their strategies are funny.

He still sings to the radio. It seems that things that don't require the concentrated recall are easier, like songs.

He always walks us to the door and yesterday he told Sidney "I love you Beans". We have called Sidney Bean since the day she was born because she was so little. But I haven't heard him say it since the accident.

It is decided that we will pick him up tomorrow at 10:30 and head to our friends. We will eat and hang out there before we take him back to his house. We won't bring him home yet. It is still to confusing the division between our house and his need to be away. Please pray for peace and happiness for him and for me to be attuned to his needs so I can make sure he doesn't back track or get overwhelmed.

Sidney and I will go to church tonight and spend Christmas morning at home. Pray for us to be peaceful and to feel love.

We wish you a joyful and beautiful Christmas.

December 21

Kirk has had a pretty good week. He has been able to participate in all the activities of the house and clinic this week. He made a ginger bread house with Cliff, one of the staff. He was very proud of his creation. He also went to the grocery store and helped at the food pantry. He can still do many normal daily activities with little queuing. But he can't remember anything for more than a minute or two or single activity.

Sidney played the piano in a Christmas Concert at a retirement home. She played Frosty the Snowman. While we were on our way there we pulled up behind a car that had the gas door open and the gas cap hanging out. The driver of the car next to them was trying very hard to indicate what the problem was. But the driver of the car with the gas cap off didn't get it. Finally the passenger of the other car got out and went around to put in the gas cap and close the door. It was hysterical to watch. 

Sidney also came up one of her jokes. What movie do cows watch? The Sound of Moosic. She cracks me up.

We've had a friend from Houston for the weekend so we ate out and I had help with a few things around the house. Sidney is out of school and I am off the next two weeks. We both need a break and we can spend a bit more time with Kirk as well. 

All we want for Christmas is memory. That would be the best possible gift.

December 14

We spent time with Kirk yesterday. We picked him up and went to a really nice little park close to where Kirk is. We probably walked about a 1/2 mile to and from the play ground. Sidney thought the playground was great. Then we went for some barbecue before heading back to the house where Kirk is. He was not as insistent about coming home this time. We did a craft project with him. We made some necklaces out of bells. We made three reindeer and three snowmen. 

Kirk is about the same with no memory. He didn't remember going to the park right after we left. We have to get memory. Somehow that's what we need to find. 

Sidney and I have had a quiet weekend. Just the usual chores and errands. One more week of school and we get a little break. We need it. I wish I had more to tell you right now but I don't. 

December 11

I visited Kirk at the clinic yesterday. He continues to do fairly well there. He hasn't had a set back like the week before Thanksgiving since then. He takes his medications and is fairly compliant with working on assignments at the clinic. He seems more comfortable with where he is and doesn't act nearly as fearful anymore. He still wants me to take him home every time I see him. And he still has no moment to moment memory. While I was visiting I stepped away to talk to the counselor and came back to him. He did not realize he had seen me a few minutes before. Until the amnesia starts to pass though it is very hard to make real progress. 

Sidney was in choir concert last night. I'll get a picture of her in her tuxedo shirt, vest and bow tie up this weekend. It was a cute concert. The kids did a good job. And otherwise Sidney and I are just staying afloat. I am trying to figure out what to do for Christmas to best take care of everyone but I am just not prepared for this. I truly don't think Kirk will even be able to visit us at home. I think me dreams of him home for Christmas are gone. 

Thank you for your continuing love, thoughts, prayers and support.

December 6

We had a good visit with Kirk. I got his and Sidney's hair trimmed. Neither needed much but they both needed to be cleaned up. Sorry I forgot to get a picture. We went and grabbed lunch from Sonic and took it back to the house. We spent several hours together before getting back to weekend business. It was really hard to walk out on Kirk. He wants to come home but really needs to be where he is.

Dinner tonight was sausage and cabbage. The cabbage was from a friend's garden. It was really good and easy. One pan and done. We also got groceries and finished the tree.

We need to start developing a plan for something to do with Kirk next week. If it's nice we can go to the park. If not I need a not super stimulating idea for what to do near the house where he is. Oh he did Gus about my driving. I didn't gave both hands on the steering wheel. So when he fussed I took them both off. Ha!

Tomorrow is church before kicking off a busy week. I'll go see him at the clinic mid week again and see what kind of trouble he is up to!

December 4

This week has been as different as night and day from last week. Kirk can still tire or get over stimulated easily but he handles it much better this week. He has done really well in all of his therapy and been much more compliant with his medications. It's just been a really good week. He sings to the radio even when he can remember only some of the words and imitates all the instruments when he is jazzed. He's got a fiddle, drums and piano at least in is mock instruments. He is using very little Arabic and seems to be more comfortable where he is. He is also helping out around the house particularly in the kitchen.

Sidney and I are planning to try to take Kirk for a hair cut this weekend. We will base our ultimate decision to try when we see him Saturday. We will also try to stop to pick up lunch but only if the haircut goes OK. I am anxious but willing to try. I won't in any way push our luck. Please pray for us to have a good weekend and to enjoy a few minutes alone together.

December 1

It has been three months now since the accident. The pest control people called me today to set up this quarter's pest treatment. The last treatment was the week of Kirk's accident. It has been a whole quarter. Wow.

Kirk has improved over the weekend in his ability to take his medications willingly and in communication. No signs the amnesia is going away but he is easier to get along with and using less Arabic. We visited several times over the weekend and he was much better than on Wednesday. He had a really good day today at therapy, completing all his tasks, speaking only English and identifying 75%of the items he was shown. None of this has happened before. He has always gotten frustrated and aggravated. This is only one day though and we need many, many more of these to make improvement.

He is enjoying crafts. He made a snowman out of socks and a turkey. So that was a good thing to learn because Sidney and I can take things to do with him. I think I might take him Legos as well. We also finally heard him sing. Sidney started singing Rudolph and he joined in. He could sing nearly all of it with her. Then we sang Do Lord and he sang all of his part except one time he couldn't remember so he sang Ho Ho Ho knowing it was wrong and knowing he could get a laugh out of us. So we need to try more tricks to get him to sing. He also told Sidney he loved her tons but she could still get a time out while snuggling on her.

Sidney and I are moving along. We went on another long hike Friday. Had a really nice but rather exhausting time. We both drooped in the last mile. Stormy was of course still ready to run circles around us. We are also trying to get the Christmas letter together. It may not be the most grammatically correct letter ever. We have to plug through three more weeks before another break from the crazy routine. With a child and two pets having names that start with "S" I get into trouble when I need to fuss at someone and I can't remember which "S" word to use.

Please continue to pray for peace for him as he struggles to sort out current reality and deals with frustration. Pray for us to know how best to support him and help him on our continuing journey.